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Our experts are all specialists in matters directly involved with older properties. So, if you have a problem with an older building - or if you think you might have a problem - ask an Agony Uncle...
SUBJECT: Alleged
damp walls lead to mortgage retention Wendy Dennis A simple answer is yes. Get an independent surveyor who properly understands this type of structure and is prepared to properly assess the damp problems. He can then prepare a brief report advising what is required in terms of building works to resolve the problems. I doubt if any 'specialist' treatment is required. You can then refer the mortgage company to the RICS Appraisal and Valuation Manual and particularly Guidance Notes Appendix 2 - 'Recommendation for works in respect of buildings of architectural or historical interest in conservation areas or of unusual construction'. The thrust of this is to obtain advice from someone who properly understands the nature of the building and has no vested financial interest in the outcome of their recommendations. Remind the mortgage company that when inspecting the building the mortgage valuer should have taken account the guidance manual. I hope you are successful in persuading the mortgage company that simply injecting an old building can often cause more harm than good. Failing this, if it is merely a condition to get a report and no retention, you could get the report, show it to them and then ignore it. They are unlikely to ever check whether you did the work and if they do you simply tell them that you followed subsequent professional advice. A surveyor in your area who may be able to help is Richard Oxley of Oxley Conservation (see the listing of surveyors on this site). Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Alien
creatures in our thatch Marilyn Godwyn I have heard that some imported thatch carries the risk of unusual insects being brought in on the thatch. You need advice from someone who can identify the insects such as an entomologist (not a thatcher!). You then need to find out the usual environmental conditions for the insects, because it might be that they die out naturally over the winter. Subject to what you are told about the insects you can then decide what to do about the thatch. I would not normally advise treating the thatch as the introduction of liquid could result in a faster rate of degradation for the thatch. I am dealing with one instance of imported Reed and insects where we are going to strip the roof and start again! However, the problem was not only the insects. This might be the solution for you, but it would probably be resolved only after a lengthy legal battle with the thatcher. The first thing to do is to identify the insects and their normal habitat, from which you can then assess whether the thatch is the culprit. At this stage I would not wish to rule out the imported thatch. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Pebbledash
requires analysis for seamless finish Alicia Aras Have the original material properly analysed. I suspect that it is a
mortar made from sand, lime and perhaps some cement. The mortar should be fairly straightforward
to replicate. However, perhaps the most important thing in replicating the finish is to
get aggregate of the same size and grading as the original. This is more difficult, but
an analysis of the original is important if the repair is to be 'invisible'. It is not
only the size but general shape (rounded or sharp?) that makes all the difference in successful
replication for patch repair. Ideally, you should try to identify where the aggregate
came from, but I doubt if this will be possible. In any event, a proper analysis of the
existing material and use of the same basic materials will help to ensure that the repair
is 'invisible'. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Bubbling
paint due to damp Rebecca Avis Yes I agree 100% with your plan of action. In addition, make sure that the external surfaces of the walls are able to breathe and that impermeable material is removed. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Professional
Groups provide extension to formal training Khalid Rashid If you are a member of the RICS I suggest you join the RICS Building Conservation Group/Forum (details from the RICS). There are many CPD events given that deal with identifying the age of properties. There are numerous books written on the subject. As a fellow surveyor I would warn you that your basic training does not equip you to deal with historic buildings. Much of what you have probably learnt has been related to modern buildings and cannot be readily transferred to older buildings. There are post-qualification courses that you could follow if you want to deal with historic buildings. Otherwise it is a matter of self-education by reading the many books that are around. Some local authorities run day courses for owners/professionals. The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) run occasional courses. There are also other training centres (such as the lime centre at Winchester or the Weald and Downland Museum). You can get more information from the Building Conservation Directory (www.buildingconservation.com). Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Dry
Winters & damp Summers Rachel Woods When considering damp problems you have to ask yourself what has changed in recent years that might have brought about the dampness? Very few buildings would have been noticeably damp from when they were built. Dampness 'problems' can usually be traced back to a change. Sometimes this is a change in materials used for repair, alterations to the building and perhaps even simply changes in the way the building is used/occupied. Without more information your problem is difficult to answer specifically. However, I suspect that part of the problem may be water coming down the chimney (you do not say if it is used). You should consider having a form of ventilated cap installed that will prevent water getting down the flue but will allow ventilation. Has your neighbour had works undertaken that could have diverted the passage of moisture through the structure into your property? You could have a condensation problem that is not so apparent in the winter because the air movement around the building is different (because of the heating). In the first instance you should consider these matters and see if there is an obvious cause (water penetration or moisture having been diverted). Otherwise you must find a local surveyor or architect who properly understands this type of building and can advise you. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Local
builder murders chimney with grinder & injected cement Dave Sadler I often shudder when I hear of a grinder being used. This creates a very uniform gap and changes the appearance of the brickwork. Quite often a careless workman will cut into bricks in the wrong place and leave various scars. I would far rather see hand removal of the defective pointing as it does less damage. Further, the use of a hard cement mortar could be very damaging if the bricks are soft Victorian bricks. I suggest you ask for hand removal of the pointing and a hydraulic lime mortar mix to be used for the repointing. It sounds like your roofer wants to do a quick and easy job for him, but one that could be potentially damaging to the chimney. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Damp
Welsh farmhouse built into a hill Ian Muir What you suggest is sensible. To keep breathable internal wall surfaces and good ventilation in the property will help ensure that the moisture does not become trapped. You may find that the amount of moisture is not significant and that you need do no more. However, if you find the moisture is excessive, you could consider an internal ventilated/drained dry-lining system. This is a situation where you really need someone to go and look at the building and consider a holistic solution. I would not advise injecting walls or coating them to dry to stop the damp. Can the ground levels be lowered? It sounds like a problem that a bit of careful consideration and common sense could resolve. Take the matter one step at a time, deal with the obvious defects first and you may be pleasantly surprised to find that the problems are resolved without too much work or expense. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Do
I need listed building planning permission to build a garage Gaynor Steer As the garage would be within the grounds of the listed building you would need listed building consent and a full planning application. The materials used would be a matter of negotiation with the Local Authority. Building Control might argue against thatch on the garage due to its proximity to the main house and the risk of fire. I suggest that thatch will not have to be used and it might be argued that another material (such as tile) would be preferable. The state of the thatch is another matter entirely. You do not say what type of thatch (Long Straw, Combed Wheat Reed, or Water Reed) and it is therefore difficult to give positive guidance. Whatever the main coat of thatch might be the ridge would normally require renewal every 12-15 years (subject to several factors). The thatcher could be correct and it is often appropriate to have some general patch repair undertaken when the ridge is dealt with. Regarding an assessment of the roof, you should get an independent thatcher (one who you pay for his advice and who will therefore have no vested interest in his recommendations) who is skilled in the particular type of thatch (this is particularly important if it is Long Straw). You should contact the local branch of the Master Thatchers Associations for the name of a suitable thatcher. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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