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SUBJECT: Local
conservation officer should have the contacts
FROM: Hugh
Zocher (London)
I am in the process of buying a Grade II listed barn in Salfords, Surrey. I realise
that the soleplate/posts require underpinning. Please can you refer me to a company/s
that do this in Surrey.
Hugh Zocher
My first port of call would be your local conservation officer at
the district council who will have a better knowledge of builders working in the locality
with the necessary skills to undertake the work. But, it is very important you actually
view some of their latest work - remember many builders sub-contract out work therefore
standards can be variable. Finally, take a look at www.buildingconservation.com at
the directory section and look under builders.
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SUBJECT: Dusty
pamments need more appeal
FROM: Stephen
Clabburn (Brundish)
Please could you advise me the best way to clean and treat pamment flooring. I have recently
moved into a 15th century cottage where the floor despite repeated scrubbing continues
to look dull and dirty.
Stephen Clabburn
Traditional small quantities of unpasteurised soured milk, applied with
a rag and rubbed into the pamments helped to protect pamments as well as imparting a slight
sheen. Alternatively the use of a little beeswax and turpentine polish will help to provide
protection and improve their appearance. Both of the above suggestions apply to traditional
floors laid on lime or sand/earth where maintaining a breathing floor is very important.
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SUBJECT: Sources
of salvage in London
FROM: Lisa
Reynolds (Finchley, London)
Where can I find the nearest Reclaimation Site?
Lisa Reynolds
Lassco St Michaels has various locations in London supplying a bewildering
range of architectural salvage. Visit www.lassco.co.uk or telephone them on 020 7749 9944.
Alternatively Reclaims of Crews Hill in Enfield have a three acres site full of goodies.
They can be contacted on 020 8 367 1666.
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SUBJECT: Quarry
tile floor needs sparkle
FROM: Ainsley
Williams (Leicestershire)
I have just laid a reclaimed Quarry tile floor. I need to seal the tiles and provide some
protection for them. They are in a high usage area as well as in the shower room. Please
advise. Only help so far is linseed oil, with the proviso that it does attract the dirt.
Any other solutions?
Ainsley Williams
As a rule linseed oil should not be used on quarry tiles as it yellows
when exposed to light and absorbs dirt which dulls and darkens the tiles. If, your tiles
are laid on a traditional bed of lime mortar it is important to apply a breathing surface
finish to the tiles. To achieve this The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings
recommend the use of turpentine polish followed by a coat of beeswax.
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SUBJECT: Dirty
limewash in cellar
FROM: Bryan
Sadler (Lancaster)
We have Victorian cellar with lime washed walls. They are filthy and I am about to clean
them. Any do's and don'ts for cleaning limewashed walls?
Bryan Sadler
Bryan, your first step should be to brush down the walls to remove any
loose material, followed by washing, sponging and scrubbing with warm water. This will
help to remove the dirt and some of the limewash. Then, simply re-limewash the walls.
The use of limewash will allow any moisture in the walls to evaporate. Do not use a modern
non-breathing paint as the moisture will simply be retained in the fabric of your property
causing damp.
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SUBJECT: Cob
shows signs of wear & tear
FROM: Louise
Farrand (Dorset)
I have a 1730s cottage in Dorset made from cobb. In places cracks and holes have opened
up on the surface and the paint is peeling in places. What would be the best method to
make good the wear and tear?
Louise Farrand
Louise, before embarking on any repairs to your cob cottage it is essential
to ascertain why the so-called cracks and holes are appearing. It may be wear and tear
due to age and weathering, or alternatively it may be as a result of other yet to be identified
problems. Of course, without seeing the property it is impossible to pinpoint the exact
reasons for the development of cracks and holes. But, if they are due to wear and tear
then you should seek to repair them with the same material as the walls were constructed.
In this case cob, which is a mixture of clayey sub-soil and straw, with the clayey sub-soil
most probably derived from the general locality of the cottage. Finally, please ensure
the render used on your property is lime which is then covered in limewash. Such a finish
ensures any damp within the cob can simply evaporate without causing any damage to the
structure of your property.
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SUBJECT: Listed
building planning permission required
FROM: Chris
Walsh (Conwy, Clwyd)
My wife and I are considering buying a second property to let, and have viewed a Grade
II listed terraced cottage as a possible purchase. The property is in reasonable decorative
order, however we would want to remove a large ground floor picture window (10'x10') which
is on the gable end abutting a main road, brick up and render the aperture, and put a
new window in the front of the property instead. This would balance up the appearance
of the front of the property and provide more privacy to a tenant. Could we alter the
property in such a way, and how do we find out?
Chris Walsh
Chris, because the property in question is a listed building it is a
criminal offence to undertake any alterations to the property without seeking Listed Building
Planning Permission. Therefore, firstly you should consult your local conservation officer
concerning your plans to see if planning permission could be achieved.
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SUBJECT: High
ground levels cause penetrating damp
FROM: Jeremy
Bullock (Newbury, Berkshire)
I have just bought a Victorian Farmhouse, C1820, made of brick and flint. There is evidence
of penetrating damp inside - but I am heartened to find that the soil levels outside the
farmhouse have been raised above the level of the internal floors. I am in the process
of removing this soil and taking off the affected plaster. What other action should I
take and is it OK to use a dehumidifier to speed the process up?
Jeremy Bullock
Jeremy, you are on the right track. Attempt to reduce the ground levels
outside the property to below the internal floor levels of the property. Please ensure
you are not undermining the foundations of the property because the internal floor levels
may have been lowered sometime in the past rather than the external ground levels increasing.
Also ensure any new plastering is undertaken is in lime to allow the walls to breathe
as well as check all guttering for leaks.
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SUBJECT: Damp
floor may lead to un-doing of previous work
FROM: Claire
Greene (Olney, Buckinghamshire)
My partner and I have recently purchased a Grade II Listed Cottage and in the midst of
re -decorating. We knew about a damp patch under the stairs and are able to treat this
under guarantee. However, the damp company who previously treated this section has advised
us to treat the actual problem - damp rising under the floor and hollow areas forming.
This, can only be treated with the existing floor dug up, a latex sealer installed and
then a new floor. We have recently re decorated the whole of the lounge/ dining room,
so other than the cost (approx. £2000) it could spoil our new interior. However, is this
treatment imperative to the cottage?
Claire Greene
Claire, you do not make it clear what the construction of your property
is and the damp treatment it has recently undergone. But, any move to install a new dpc
in your floor may lead to moisture simply being concentrated around the bases of the internal
and external walls of the property. This is a complex issue which has been covered in
may questions before, but a good source of advice is the Society for the Protection of
Ancient Building's leaflet called 'The Control of Damp in Old Buildings'. They can be
contacted on 020 7 377 1644.
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SUBJECT: Timber
floors need sprucing up
FROM: Anna
Erken (Wotton-under-Edge, Gloucestershire)
Our house dates from the 1770's and used to be a pub. After living here for 4 years we
are now in the process of looking under de carpets and have discovered that the floors
of attic rooms and the staircases are made of lovely dark elm. We would like to remove
the carpets and expose the wood but the problem is that although they seem to be waxed
in a dark colour they appear dull and dirty. When I cleaned them with a damp rag the beautiful
colour reappeared but then when the water had dried off they became dull and discoloured
again. All the advice I have received so far have been to sand them down and then to stain
them. This, to me, seems rather harsh and I was wondering whether there was an alternative?
Anna Erken
The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings have published a
booklet entitled the 'Care and Repair of Old Floors'. The cleaning and polishing of Hardwood
floors such as Oak and Elm are discussed. Please contact them on 020 7 377 1644 for a
copy of the booklet which costs a few pounds.
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